Adjusting to Life in Kwaj

Moving internationally is never easy: logistically, but especially mentally and emotionally. Once you arrive at your new home, the adjustment period begins. When I moved to Spain, I had to adapt to a new language back when my Spanish was... well, limited. In Bahrain, I had to navigate learning a whole new culture. Those first few weeks in a new country are always about figuring out your surroundings and building a routine. To say the least, it’s exhausting.

It’s also exhilarating. It’s the exact high that most travelers chase.

Adjusting to life on Kwajalein has been both everything and nothing as I expected. Things here move at their own unique pace. There’s zero rush to get anywhere. It’s life in the slow lane, where speed limits cap at a whopping 10 miles per hour. I was really looking forward to that slower tempo, but I still have to remind myself to slow down when things take much longer than anticipated.

I’ve quickly realized there’s a certain dysfunction to how things operate here. I wish I could say everything has been smooth sailing since landing on the island, but there’s a popular local saying for a reason: It’s not logical, it’s Kwajical. Some things just don't make sense; it’s just Kwajalein. I’ve experienced that firsthand since arriving.

Take my housing situation, for example. There are two main living setups here: Family Housing and the Bachelor’s Quarters (BQs) for those who are unaccompanied (AKA me). The BQs are dorm-style living with a kitchenette and a private bathroom. Nothing fancy, but how often am I really going to be sitting in my room anyway?

When we landed, we were informed that a housing shortage meant being placed in temporary BQ housing until permanent rooms opened up. What I didn't anticipate was being paired with a roommate for four days in a space barely big enough for one person. It felt like college all over again. Safe to say, sleep hasn't been super peaceful lately. Add in trying to adapt to the massive time change. I often find myself wide awake by 4:00 AM, which at least gives me plenty of morning reading time. It's been a wild ride. Oh, did I mention we had no Wi-Fi in the room for those first four days either? Yep, completely off the grid. Thankfully, the roommate situation has since been resolved, and I’m finally settled into my own room.

Because chaos loves company, Mother Nature decided to send Super Typhoon Dolphin as our welcome gift. A Category 5 typhoon that is the strongest on record to develop so close to the International Date Line. Great timing, right?

It tracked about 800 miles north of us, but for three days, we got hit with relentless wind and rain. My raincoat immediately became my new best friend; I haven't left home without it. Evenings, though, offered a brief reprieve when the clouds broke enough to catch a beachfront sunset. The lagoon, normally calm, has been wilder than long-time locals have ever seen it. Watching the sheer power of the wind and the waves crashing against the rocks felt like an internal mirror of my first week here: overwhelming and chaotic, but still holding so much beauty.

That brings me to another great island phrase: “You either see the waves or you see the rust.”

Living in the middle of the ocean means things rust fast. It’s a wonderful reminder about perspective: if you focus on the negative, that’s all you’re going to see. Even with the bumpy start, there are so many moments making it all worth it.

I’ve actually fallen in love with a lot of the adjustments. First, the primary mode of transportation around the island is by bicycle, although I still love to walk. The roads are practically empty, and whenever I pass someone, I’m met with a warm smile.

Then there are the meals. Food delivery is a thing of the past when the grocery store is right next to my school, just a block away. Given that my current cooking setup consists entirely of a microwave, I often find myself at the dining facility. They won’t be earning a Michelin star anytime soon, but it’s really not bad. Most people say you get tired of it eventually, so an air fryer is definitely at the top of my wishlist to expand my meal options.

By far, my favorite new routine is biking down to Emon Beach for the sunset. Some nights the beach is totally quiet while other nights, like tonight, it’s bustling with families and local cookouts. I’m always my happiest near the water. It’s always been my safe space. I pack up my journal and a book, sit by the water, and watch the sun dip below the horizon. I don't think I'll ever grow tired of it. No two sunsets here are ever the same.

The absolute hardest shift has been the time difference. Sitting 16 hours ahead of the US East Coast means I am constantly living in the future. My Monday morning is everyone else’s Sunday evening back home. My work schedule looks a bit different now too, running on a Tuesday-through-Saturday week. That’s definitely going to take some getting used to once school starts.

All in all, it’s been a whirlwind of adjustments, but I can truly say I’m so excited for the year ahead. This is my final weekend before the school year kicks off, so I’m balancing the hustle of prepping my classroom for my new students with soaking up these last precious quiet moments.